February 2022 - The King Alfred Blog

February 10, 2022February 10, 2022

Carhampton in Somerset – Raids and Royalty

This post is one is one of many providing additional materials relating to my book, King Alfred: A Man on the Move, available from Amazon and through bookshops.

In his will, King Alfred left an estate at Carhampton (as Carumtun) to his son and successor, King Edward the Elder. This by itself makes it an important place, but then we must add the two recorded Viking raids, one in 836 when King Egbert, Alfreds grandfather, fought against 35 (in one version of the Anglo-Saxon Chronicles it is 25) ship-loads of Vikings, with the Vikings winning amidst great slaughter. The other engagement was in 843, when King Æthelwulf (King Alfred’s father) fought and lost against another 35 ship-loads of Vikings at Carhampton. It perhaps should be noted that in the Old English of the Anglo-Saxon Chronicles, what is actually said is that the two engagements with the Vikings took place æt Carrum. It seems that all prominent historians take Carrum to be Carhampton. Although I see this as likely, it should be pointed out that it is not proven. It is argued that the place-name derives from the Old-English word Carr, meaning “rock”, with the dative plural being Carrum. So æt Carrum translates to “at the rocks”, meaning that the uninflected place-name of Carhampton (e.g. how it would appear in a list etc) at the time would have been something else, perhaps Carras. It makes me slightly uncomfortable that the word Carr for rock is mainly associated with Northumbria. By Domesday it is called Carentone. For the time being at least, let us side with the mainstream and take Carrum to be Carhampton.

Carhampton, Somerset. The church of St John the Baptist seen from the east.

The most obvious landing site for an attack on Carhampton would be Blue Anchor Bay, just a short distance to the north. A 1809 map shows a location called “Blue Anchor” This shows on later maps to probably be the building that became the Blue Anchor Pub (sadly closed when I passed in 2022). I understand that Blue Anchor Bay was once known as Cleeve Bay. This would have been associated with Chapel Cleeve, which was the site of a chapel dedicated to St Mary and built by the monks of nearby Cleeve Abbey. Apparently this chapel replaced one that had fallen into the sea. However, Cleeve Abbey (and therefore the churches referred to above) are post – Norman conquest and would have not been present in the Saxon period.

Blue Anchor, Somerset. Map. Mudge 1809 — Blue Anchor, Somerset. Detail from map by Mudge, 1809.

Blue Anchor, Somerset. Looking west along the coast from Blue Anchor. Minehead in the distance.

So, what was Carhampton when it was a royal estate, and what did it constitute when there was a battle with the Vikings there. There is little guidance above ground so we have to look for clues. The area around a parish church usually provides a strong clue, but in this case the older church has been demolished (two churches co-existed for many years, with the current church of St John the Baptist dating to the 15th century, although much rebuilt) and tracking down its location proved problematic. My starting point was that I was informed that it was to the east of the current church. Here is perhaps the best point to refer you to an excellent write up by Historic England of what was found in this area. The link (with map) is here. You will see that there is significant and substantial evidence of Saxon occupation between the current church and Eastbury Farm. The area of occupation may have been larger. As always with archaeology, we know far less about areas that have not been investigated). The findings included a cemetery, containing an estimated “several hundred” burials, and evidence of settlement and metalworking. The pottery finds were thought to probably indicate either a high status or a monastic site.

Looking west across part of the site where Saxon settlement has been uncovered. Taken from Eastbury Rd.

Although we are told that the church of St John the Baptist is fifteenth century (but much rebuilt) it is notable that what remains of a cross in the churchyard is dated by Historic England to about 14th century (link here). Perhaps the church of St John the Baptist is older than 15th century.

Carhampton, Somerset. Cross in the churchyard of St John the Baptist — Carhampton, Somerset. The remains of the cross in the churchyard of St John the Baptist

It seems that the last record of the older church was by Leland in 1540. Based on the pottery sherds it seems that the higher status part was at or near the Eastbury Farm buildings and to the north of the road there. It therefore seems likely that the Carhampton royal estate was focused on this area. The two battles against the Vikings may have been due to a raid on this site.

Carhampton, Somerset. Detail from map by Mudge, 1809. I struggled to interpret this map with Carhampton as it is today.

Carhampton is also an important location in the legends surrounding St Carantoc. We are told that he founded a monastery at Carhampton after defeating a dragon. While elements are clearly fanciful (i.e. the dragon), the presence of Carantoc and a monastery may not be. It has also been suggested that the name of Carhampton derives in some way from Carantoc.

February 6, 2022February 6, 2022

Langport in Somerset – a Saxon Settlement

This post is one of several providing information on places not necessarily covered in my book, King Alfred: A Man on the Move, available from Amazon and bookshops.

Langport is not far from Athelney, where King Alfred prepared for the reconquest of his kingdom in 878, and even closer to Aller, where King Alfred baptised the Viking Guthrum after he had been defeated at Ethandun later on in 878.

There is, however, no record of King Alfred having visited Langport, although it seems to me to be likely that he would have been there on occasions, particularly as it was also a burh listed in the Burghal Hidage, a list of fortified sites that in the version that has come down to us today seems to date to the reign of his son, King Edward the Elder, although many of these defended sites may date to King Alfred’s defended post-878 settlements programme. Other listed burhs in Somerset are Watchet, Axbridge and Lyng . Bath is also included, but this might not have been in Somerset in King Alfred’s time.

All Saints' Church, Langport, Somerset. — All Saints’ Church, Langport, Somerset. Was this the centre of the Saxon burh?

There is little to see in today’s Langport to remind us of its Saxon past, but we can look for clues in things like road layout, the river, the position of the church etc. Langport is not far from Somerton and one of its functions may have been to protect that place, with another function being to act as a port for Somerton, because it is on the Parrett (although note that “Port” can also mean trading place in addition to what we today think of as being a port). The River Yeo flows into the Parrett just south of Langport, which provided it with a connection to another important location – Ilchester. However, we must be careful in this area when describing water courses as the Somerset Levels would have not been drained at this time.

The Hanging Chapel, Langport, Somerset. As seen from the east

It is speculative, but it seems possible to infer a possible Saxon burh on the area around the hill on which All Saints’ Church is located, with the eastern boundary being in line with the Hanging Chapel, the western boundary being at the junction of The Hill and North Street, and perhaps the northern extent being at the end of the pedestrian route called Priest’s Lane.

Priest Lane, Langport, Somerset — Priest Lane (looking north), Langport, Somerset

Junction of The Hill with North Street and Bow Street, Langport, Somerset. Taken from the south side of Bow Street. Is this the site of the West Gate of the former Saxon burh?

This area is, of course, well away from the river and it seems unlikely that there would not have been a settlement near the river as well (wherever that precisely was at that time). Indeed, it has been suggested that the name Langport literally means a long port (with port in this case meaning a trading place), and that this is because there could have been a long market along the long Bow Street. This seems plausible. I have also seen it suggested that the “lang” element is related to the Welsh word for boat (llong). This word may have been part of the Celtic vocabulary so cannot be ruled out, although it seems less likely to me than the perhaps more obvious “long port”.

February 6, 2022February 7, 2022

Watchet in Somerset – a Saxon Settlement

This post is one of several providing information on places not necessarily covered in my book, King Alfred: A Man on the Move, available from Amazon and bookshops.

Watchet is on the North Somerset coast, and is a great place to visit, irrespective of its connections to the Anglo-Saxons.

There is no record of Alfred having been at Watchet, although this by no means rules his presence out at some point. Watchet was listed in the Burghal Hidage as Weced and is also referred to in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicles as Wæced. Although this document in the form currently available to us was drawn up under King Alfred’s son, King Edward the Elder, it seems likely that Weced would have also been there at the time of King Alfred, and may indeed have been part of his post-878 improvement of Wessex defences against the Vikings through the development of fortified settlements (burhs). Other listed burhs in Somerset are Watchet, Axbridge and Lyng . Bath is also included, but this might not have been in Somerset in King Alfred’s time.

“Yankee Jack” at the harbour, Watchet, Somerset.

Watchet was clearly vulnerable and a target. The Anglo-Saxon Chronicles tell us that in the harvest-time of 914, in the rule of Edward the Elder, King Alfred’s son, the Vikings landed at night east of Watchet but were repelled by the Saxons and fled to either Steepholm or Flatholm, before crossing to Wales and then Ireland. It is important to note that Weced may not have been where Watchet is today. It is thought that the defended settlement was at what is now called Daw’s Castle, which is on the Coast Path a little to the west of today’s Watchet. It occurs to me that the attack of 914, which we are told took place to the east of Watchet, might just mean that it took place at what is now Watchet harbour. Points further east are, of course, still possible. Although Weced was probably at Daw’s Castle it seems implausible that, even in King Alfred’s times, there would not have been some sort of settlement down at the harbour as well, before the place later became referred to as Wecedport (see below).

View from Daws Castle, Watchet, Somerset, looking west towards Minehead.

Watchet was raided in 988 (and/or 987 – different dates are provided by different versions of the Anglo-Saxon Chronicles) when there was great slaughter, although it seems that the Vikings lost (according to a reference I saw to a document called the Life of St Oswald). It seems possible that Watchet was by now including the harbour as well as Daw’s Castle as, importantly, both the C and E versions of the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle now name the place as Wecedport (although note that the word “port” could also mean trading place as well as what we today generally think of as being a port). The Anglo-Saxon Chronicles tell us that Watchet (Wecedport) was raided again in 997, with much slaughtering and burning.

Getting to Daw’s Castle is quite straight forward, but it is quite a long climb out of Watchet up West Street and then Cleeve Hill until the footpath comes off on your right (at the time of writing). This takes you straight into the site of Daws Castle.

St Decuman's Well, near St Decuman's Church, Watchet, Somerset — St Decuman’s Well, near St Decuman’s Church, Watchet, Somerset

St Decuman’s Church, with its Holy Well should not be missed. St Decuman’s is a short distance (but quite a long walk) south of the centre of Watchet. The well is a lovely location and the church is of great interest. According to legend, Decuman crossed from Wales in Saxon times (in the 600s) on a raft with a cow and lived here as a hermit. He was decapitated by an evil man, but as a miracle he replaced his head on his shoulders and carried on, and local people assisted him in building a church. To visit the well you need to go down the little track past the church (not down the track that leads down to Watchet -there is a sign pointing the way).

St Decuman's Church, Watchet, Somerset — St Decuman’s Church, Watchet, Somerset

You may wish to take time to visit the “traditional” site of a battle between the Saxons and the Danes near Williton, a short distance south of Watchet. It is located near Danesfield School and there is a convenient lay-by where you can look across into the field. Please note that the field is private land. A tumulus (these typically, but not always, date to the Bronze Age) can be easily seen from the lay-by. On old Ordnance Survey maps the location is called “Battle Gore” and is marked on the 1888 to 1930 maps as “Site of Battle A.D. 918”. The lines of earthworks are also indicated. The field is the one to the south of where the small stream flows. Please note that this may just be legensd and I am not aware of any corroboration that a battle took place here. The year 918 does not fit well with the years of recorded attacks stated in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicles.